Sue4Don

Today I crossed the Pyranese – yes I actually did it!
I woke up very early, but didn’t know what to do, because my Kindle had ceased to work overnight and I had to conserve the battery on my phone, as there was nowhere on the campsite to charge it.
I don’t know how people sleep so long on campsites these days! I didn’t want to disturb anyone, so daren’t do much packing before 7.
Then I was a bit slow due to trying to be quiet, but I finally got away and cycled back down the hill into Cerbère for breakfast. I took my time over it, as my phone was charging inside the cafe and finally left about 9.
The climb was harder than expected – although not steep it was extremely long and the sun was already quite strong, but I finally reached the top, then the exhilerating ride down, only to see how far I had to go up again! Actually, this wasn’t as bad as it looked, but I did opt out of going right to the top, as originally intended, and took the tunnels after all. There was very little traffic, the long tunnel (500 m.) was well lit and I did have a flashing red light in addition to my warning jacket, but I still felt safer pushing along the pavement.
After this came another descent, but there were still several more climbs to come. As in France the road kept coming down to the beach towns and up again over the next hill.
However it was a really great sensation of achievement, full of emotion, and when I got towards Llançà the tears came! My efforts were being rewarded by this beautiful view of the briliant blue ocean shimmering silver in the sun!
After that the traffic seemed to increase constantly and I was glad when I could leave the main road and head south again. It was rather slow ging due to the wind but that also prevented it from feeling so hot and otherwise easy. It was great having the harder part first and the easier part afterwards for a change.
Although I still hadn’t quite reached 50 km. by my ususal time of 2 p.m. I stopped for my lunchbreak at a picnic area by the river in St. Père Pescador from where it took me another hour to get to L’Éscala. There I went swimming in the sea before thee final 8 km. to my last warm showers hosts Matt and Steve.
Again I was warmly welcomed and another nice meal and enjoyable company completed the day.

Tour stats: 68 km., 554 m. climb, 5:40 bike time

What a day! No, it wasn’t a bad day; no, defiinitely not, just a far harder day than I’d expected. I left Rainer at after ten, thinking it ws going to be an easy half-day joyride but had a surprise. He had told me I wouldn’t just want to go to Argeles-sur-Mer, as this was only 40km. and flat. He was right about that – it was not quite as flat as I expected, but FAR more downhill than uphill.
2 years ago I talked about yellow roads nd white roads. Thise time red roads were also involved.
I was told that the yellow road was rather undulated, so had considered taking the red one. Howevr this turned out to be cars only, so the decicion was made for me.
I had hardly set off on the yellow one, when a picnic area suddnely materialised – couldn’t be better – 2 p.m. 50 km. . seaview – time for a break, which I took my time over studying maps etc. Then I set off uphilll and suddenly missed my mobile phone, nearly causing me a heart attack! I turnd round and there was my phone still on the picnic table! Whow, sigh of relief!
Then suddenly the yellow road seemed to end, on the red one bikes were still not allowed and the alterntive was to go up th b*****y mountain on the white one,, which I did!
It involved a clmb of 300m. , of which, I must admit, I pushed a fair bit of, and when I finally got to Bagniols-sur-Mer, I was going to stop for the day. dudn’t really like the town – lots of traffic and the beach full of people, nonetheless I followed the signs “campings” for about 1 km . away from the town, away from the beach and away from the direction I would have to go next day, before turing around and heading for Cerbère – another 10 km. and at least one more climb. When I got there I couldn’t find any mention of a campsite and on asking a waiter, was told “It’s 3 km. back up the hill (the on I’d just come down).
There is no bar and no restaurant at this site, but the receptrionist said there are two 10 minutes walk away. Aftr putting my tent up thirsty and showering and changing I set off on foot in the directrion he had pointed to look for them – without success! By this time also VERY hungry, I went back to the tent, donned cycling shoes and helmet, putr lights on the bike and set off anew. Fortunately I met a very frindly German lady wqho explained to me the rathr complicated way and there they were on the beach! At 9:15 I at long last had a beer and a meal.

Tour stats: 84 km., 820 m. climb, 7 hrs bike time

The next stage of my journey meant a slight detour to my next warm showers host, Rainer, who lives 20 km. West of Perpignan. Instead of cycling down the coast, Rainer had suggested I came the more direct route over the hills. I had to go a little way down the coast first, which was absolutely beautiful. There is again a strip of land further out, so it is not the sea proper, there are lots of etangs. Then about 3 kms. along a busy road, then off into the hills. Although the highest point was only about 265 m. above sea level it was very strenuous largely due to strong winds, sometimes head-on, sometimes from the side, only very briefly from behind. There were 3 climbs, not steep but long and 2 exhilerating descents. The third descent was rather spoiled by the side wind, which was in the meantime extremely strong. There was again some beautiful scenery, which I wouldn’t like to have missed. I finally arrived to a warm welcome from Rainer. At last I was able to wash all my clothes properly and they would dry overnight in the attic. Rainer cooked me a lovely dinner and I spent a very enjoyable evening in his company. Well worth the detour, thanks Rainer.

Tour stats: 88,2 km., 617 m. climb, 6:45 bike time.

What a good idea to stop in Frontignan:

The 6 km.to Sete was on a busy road with lots of industrial buildings blocking the view to the sea. Sete itself is a big town with lots of traffic. I fought my way through it until I saw signs for Office Tourisme which I never found as I had intuitively gone the right way anyway. This is not as easy as one would think because there are so many inlets and canals to be negotiated.
As soon as I came upon the strip of land to Agde with its 2 lane cycle path, I stopped for my fruit and yoghurt. I had even bought some cornflakes to complete the breakfast. On the endlessly long beach I then found a cafe, where I had a coffee.
Shortly before Cape Agde the cycle path ended and the road was busy, so I followed some other cylists along a gravel road running parallel. After a while this left the main road but I risked continuing and soon found the oblgatory tourist office for a town map. Although I only veered off the correct route slightly, it seemed to take ages to get through Cape Agde and the town of Agde itself. The lady in the tourist office had tod me on leaving the town I could cycle alond the Canal du Midi, which started off as a dirt path, slow going but pleasant cycling. I had hardly got to the paved bit when I had to leave it and strike off south.
I had intended to head for the coast again but changed my mind enroute, as this would have meant a much longer journey next day. I was still feeling good and as I didn’t happen across any accomodation in the small villages I passed through, went all he way to Narbonne. I thought I would stay in a hotel in the town, but had only passed one seedy looking one when I saw the Office de Tourisme, which was still open after 6 p.m. The prices the young man showed me were horrendous. When he asked me how much I was prepared to spend that would have been enough for the seedy one I’d passed, so I decided on luxury camping instead. The 2 kilometres he’d told me turned into over 4, but at least in the right direction.
I’d never even heard of en-suite camping, but the divided off areas all have their own shower and WC. I made time for a beer nd a swim in the pool, before setting my tent up,showering and going for an excellent dinner. At least I had seen Narbonne, which is a lovely town.
Tour stats: 107 km., 230 m. climb, 8 hrs bike time.

Today I decided to have an easier day – splitting 2 days into 3, instead not having a rest day (what would I do with it, except wash and look for a computer?). I actually managed to sleep a little bit longer, then I packed most of my stuff and left all the oopen bags outside the tent, leaving the tent to air while I went for a wash. I was just putting my makeup on, when I heared something like rain. I went outside and it really was, so everything went back in the tent and I decided to have breakfast on site, as I hadn’t seen anywhere to buy anything. When I asked for petit dejeurner, I was told I had to buy my food at the supermarket (the manager showed me where it is) and they would make me the coffee! The tent had to be packed away damp and I finally got away about 11.
Isn’t it amazing what a good meal and a night’s sleep can do? The place seemed much more attractive and I cycled along the seafront most of the time. I had lunch on the beach before getting to the part which I wasn’t looking forward to. I thought I had to go a long way round on a busy road, but a kind gentleman showed me the way to a canal where I cycled about 15 kilometres in complete and utter peace.
I stopped even earlier than planned, (I had chosen Séte bcause of the youth hostel there) because I saw a campsite and didn’t want to get to Séte and have the same problem as yesterday. This site is 100 from the beach in a quiet area. So I went and had my first swim in the Mediterranean. It was WARM but very rough. Lovely!

Tour sats: 65.54 km., 33 m. climb, 5:03 bike time.

After the best day to date followed the worst:
I packed up early, left the campsite and sat by the river watching the mist clear and the sun come out over the Pont d’Avignon whilst I ate my breakfast of fruit and yoghurt that I’d bought the night before. So far so good.
According to my map there was a road along the west of the Rhone, but I couldn’t find it – only one going back to Villeneuve, where I had come in, or one gong upwards to Les Angles which I had not found on the map and which just didn’t seem right., so I went over the bridge intending to go back over the next one, which I could see. However when I got there it was for cars only, the next one for trains and the one after that a motorway. I kept following “toutes directions” but never saw the direction I wanted. My GPS didn’t seem to help either and I was going anything from southeast to northeast and just not where I wanred- due south or souhwest, so I eventually decided to go back and take the road to Les Angles – it was probably just a small hill and would come down again soon. I am not usually a swearing person, but after a steep climb of about 1 km. I said “this can’t be right. I want to go along the river, not up the b****y mountain!”. I turned around once more and whenI got to the bottom there was a road going off to the right signposted with where I wanted to go! It was DEFINITELY not signposted in either of the other directions.
By this time I had spent over 2 hours doing 23 unnecessary kilometers (with all the stops for consulting map, GPS etc.) – so much for my early start!
But at last I was on the right road which turned out to be quite busy, so I turned off into a little village for coffee (I’d only had juice wwith my breakfast) and a pastry and worked out a different route along quiet roads. Later in the day I again couldn’t find the road I’d planned and again ended up on a busy one, allbeit with a wide hard shoulder for me to cycle on. After about 13 kilometres it took me to another small village where I sat in the shade by a canal, had my picnic and decided which way to go now.
A man was hosing a restaurant and the pavement in front of it and I went over and asked if I could have a little shower. He looked a bit puzzled and held out the hose. He couldn’t beliee it when I stuck my head under it!
Yes, it is still extremely hot. Thus refreshed I took a nice country lane through the Camargue – so peaceful until at every junction the traffic got more and more and the last run into Le Grau du Roi, which had looked so romantic on the map, was pure horror!
I finally made it to the seaside and high dunes prevented me from seeing the sea! However setting priorities I went to the Touris office asking for a campsite or a room which was not TOO expensive, only to be told that the only one he knew had space – Soleil was 7 kilometres and that not even in the right direction! Also far away from the sea. He tried calling one other, – Eden -, which was ca little closer and had a pool, but no reply. The others wanted € 60 but he would have had to call them too. I said I would go to Eden and if no luck there would go to Soleil, but I was so tired and kept getting lost yet again. I had been practising “je ne peux plus” but when he told me at Eden, that they were full the tears were genuine. He said there was emergency camping just outside, but when I asked if I could come in to use the facilities, he said “no, we are full!”! He then offered me a mobile home for €137 (per night).I finally made it to Soleil at 3 minutes to 7, just before the reception was due to close nd 11 hours after setting off.
After my usual beer, setting up the tent, laundry and shower I found out that the campsite is on a lovely lake but too late for swimming now! I again went for a lovely 3-course meal with some vin rouge and fell asleep at the table!

Tour stats for the day: 124.62 km., 175 m. climb, 8:46 bike time.

My stert was bitty again, as I stopped in the village for 2 important things: a map and cash, neither of which I felt happy without. The gentleman last night had told me to go to the tabaconnist, where I really found a perfect map – not the one I was looking for as they now have different numbers, but covering today and tomorrow. I have a suitable one for the next stage. This really was a godsend. I knew the cycle rout ran parallel and fairly close to the river, but that it was slightly further souith that it recommenced. After crossing the river I turned right onto an unsignposted road, knowing that it was going in the right direction, but just hopinng it wouldn’t fizzle out, which would have meant turning bace. But no – first it got worse, then better and all at once it was signposted V2. I followed this until it again ended (there are only bits complete), then I worked out a route with my new map,which took me down quiet cointry lanes to Avignon. I didn’t get lost or go wrong once!
When I was due for my break, I stopped at the side of a lake. I couldn’t resist going for a swim and after lunch another one. This was great and made the afternoon much easier.
I had expected to take an expensive hotel in the town, as I thought the campsites would be too far out, but there was oe just on the Rhone within sight of the famous “Pont”. They offered an inexpensive meal at the campsite which I partook of looking ove the river, the pont and the old town. After dinner I strolled over to see the nicest and most well-preservd town I’ve ever seen! Tour stats for today 70,6 km., 145 m. climb, 4,53 bike time.

having no tent to take down, I manamged to get away at 9, but wasted a lot of time trying to bu a map (I thought it would be easier to get it here) and trying to find the cycle route. I ended up on a peaceful country lane, which took me downriver, but before it could get boring, it went occross the river and straight onto a busy main road. After only a couple of hudred metres I turned off along a track and found my way back. I crossed the road into the village to ask at the tourist information, but before I found one I saw signs for the Via Rhona. That proved to be a very pleasant ride in the hills, which went in the direction of Montelimar. Somewhere I must have missed a sign and not realising how big the town was I headed for the centre. At 12 minutes past 1 I again found a Tourist Information, which reopened after the lunchbreak at 1:15, so with the help of the young lady I was able to find my way out and back onto the route. This was REALLY beside the river and extremely pleasant until it ended at Viviers. By this time I was down to about 300 ml. of hot water, so I tied Bonny to a fence and went in search of fresh. However, when I returned to a bar where I had first been told they had no big bottles, ordering a small one to drink there, the barkeeper offered to fill me a lemonade bottle with very cool tap water! I finally arrived in Bourg to see that the campsite was my side of the village – hurrah!. However I must have misinterpreted the sign, which meant I had to go back UP through the village and down again. Eventally I was able to enjoy a beer and a swim in the pool..
After doing my laundry, putting up the tent and having a shower it was still only aroung 7, so I strolled down to the river, which is only about 200 metres from my tent. I then had an excellent meal and endd up sitting with a fellow cyclist of around my age, who as mayor of a town on the German side of lake Constance was on his way to a meeting in a twin town here in the south of France!
Tour stats for today: 78.64 km.,219 m. climb, 5:41 bike time. I have now done over 1000 km.!

I had gone to sleep at 28° but from 1 a.m. onwards,  I had to add another item of clothing every hour.

As there was no-one immediately around me and I also had no WIFI, I started packing at 6, but after breakfast, which the lady at the campsite had kindly prepared for me, I ended up blow-drying the tent, which was again wet inside Anyway I did get away before 9: That was good because it was so hot- they are calling it a heatwave here!

The first part of the journey went really well. I hqd chosen the quick way down the main road. There was very little traffic on it due to the fact that it was Sunday and the motorway running almost paralell.

Then there was the big town of Romans d’Isere (not as romantic as it sounds) to negotiate, which is never easy.  I tried to find a quiet way towards Valence also avoiding that cityand ended up zig-zagging all over the place.

As I startet to get low on water, the little I still had was getting HOT and it was Sunday, I tried to find a filling-station; bar or restaurant, to no avail. I eventually saw a lady sweeping just inside her house with the door open and asked for some cold water. I almost felt like a beggar! But she was so kind, took my empty bottles and told me to sit in the lounge. She then gave me a glass of water, which she kept replenishing and after about half an hour, which I had spent conversing with her mother in Anglo-French, she asked me if I would like to wash my face in the bathroom to cool down. When I said I must go, out came my bottles from the freezer! Thanks my good samaritans, if ever you should read this!

I finally made it to Loriol, but couldn’t find my warmshowers host’s street despite GPS and asking 6 people, so I had to phone and Lionel came to meet me.

He, Maud and their two sweet daughters made me most welcome, gave me a simple but lovely 4-course meal with a bottle of Cotes-du-Rhone, nice conversation and use of the computer.

Tour stats for today: 89,59 km, 319 m. climb, 6:25 bike time 5 (total 8,5hours)